Hand-pulled noodles, made to order by specialist noodle chefs, are one of the delights of China. They can be served in soup or with a sauce, but the most classic Beijing preparation is zha jiang mian: drained noodles tossed with a rich minced-pork sauce and a smattering of fresh vegetables. Try them at Hai Wan Ju (11 Zengguang Lu, Haidian District), a family-run restaurant that serves old-fashioned Beijing food, or at a back-street noodle restaurant, where you can watch the chef at work.